There is no bridge at Mannum, so the last leg of the drive from Adelaide to Riverview Rise Retreats is a free cable ferry across the Murray River. Mannum is the only crossing on the South Australian Murray with two ferries working side by side, at least one runs 24 hours a day, and bank to bank takes around seven minutes, with no fare, no booking and no timetable. Drive off on the Cowirra side, turn left, and Riverview Rise Retreats is two kilometres up Hunter Road.
It sounds more complicated than it is, and it turns out to be the moment guests remember, the point where the trip shifts from going somewhere to being almost there.
Two ferries, one short crossing, no fare
Both are cable ferries, pulled across the river on submerged cables anchored to each bank, so there is no navigation to worry about and no schedule to keep. One is larger than the other, and the vessels are changed over a few times a year, so the ferry you cross on may not be the one you saw last visit. Of the eleven River Murray ferry crossings in South Australia, Mannum is the only one with two.
Every River Murray ferry runs free of charge as part of the state’s road network, with the South Australian Government covering the operating cost under contracts renewed in November 2024. At least one of the two Mannum ferries runs twenty-four hours a day, seven days a week.
How the crossing works in practice
There’s no Mannum ferry timetable to consult. The ferries depart when they’re full, or when they’ve waited a reasonable time for any more cars to come. In practice, that means most guests roll up, wait a minute or two, and roll on; there are rarely any substantial queues. If both ferries happen to be on the opposite bank when you arrive, you’ll wait the seven or so minutes it takes one of them to come back. That’s usually the upper limit on wait time outside peak periods.
You don’t need to get out of the car for the crossing. Drive on when the operator signals you forward, apply the handbrake, then sit back or step out onto the deck if you want a better look at the river. The operator handles loading, manoeuvring and unloading. There’s nothing to pay, no ticket to scan, no card to tap. If you’ve never used a cable ferry before, the first time is faintly novel, and then immediately straightforward!
Through Mannum and into the ferry queue
As the road from Adelaide nears Mannum, the country opens out, paddocks give way to river gums and limestone outcrops, and the Murray itself comes into view for the first time. The road slips down into the town and onto Randell Street, Mannum’s main thoroughfare, with its old river-trade buildings, riverbank cafés and pub verandahs facing the water. After an hour of paddock country, the sudden presence of the river is the first real sign you’re nearly there.
The ferry terminal sits at the bottom of Randell Street, next door to the Mannum Dock Discovery Centre, the museum that holds the restored 1897 paddle steamer PS Marion, the PW Mayflower and the heritage-listed Randell Dry Dock from 1876. If you’ve got time before the crossing, the museum is worth a stop on a future visit. Mannum is the town where Australia’s first paddle steamer, the PS Mary Ann, was launched in 1853 by William Randell. The ferries you’re about to cross on are a working part of that same river-transport story.
By the time you join the ferry queue, your destination is already in view. Riverview Rise Retreats sits on the escarpment on the opposite bank, two kilometres up the road from the eastern landing. There are two short access lanes leading down to the two ferries, and you’ll be waved into whichever lane has space. Don’t worry about choosing between them: they load and unload at the same place on each bank, so neither gets you across faster than the other.
Seven minutes on the river
This is the part most guests remember. The ferries move at a steady walking pace, and the Murray here is wide, slow and lined with red gums and limestone cliffs. You’ll often see houseboats moored along the banks, river birds working the shallows, and if the timing is right, paddle steamers such as the PS Marion or the Murray Princess going past. The light off the river in the late afternoon, when most weekend guests arrive, has a particular quality: flat, gold, slightly orange against the limestone.
Even for guests who’ve driven the route a dozen times, the short pause on the water tends to be the moment the pace of the trip changes. The drive from Adelaide is roughly an hour of road; the seven minutes on the ferry is a forced slowing of that rhythm. The engine is off, no one’s checking directions, nothing demands attention. By the time you roll off on the eastern bank, you’re no longer travelling, you’ve effectively arrived.
From Cowirra to Riverview Rise Retreats
The eastern landing is at Cowirra. Once you’ve driven off the ferry, turn left and head north along Hunter Road. Riverview Rise Retreats is two kilometres up Hunter Road, set into the river escarpment above. It’s the only road, it’s well sealed, and the retreat entrance is signed. If you somehow lose your bearings, Wink is on 0400 310 380.
The drive from the ferry to the luxury villas takes about three minutes. You’ll see the river on your left for most of it, glinting through the gums as the road climbs gently along the escarpment. The property name reflects the geography exactly: the villas sit on the rise above the river view. By the time you swing into the carpark, the road noise from the highway is two horizons away and the only sound is birds and the river below.
Three villas wait at the top: Bob’s Bungalow, Lazy Jane Lodge and Molly’s Hideaway. Nobody can see you and nobody can hear you. The Retreats are spaced for absolute privacy.
Long weekends, public holidays and quiet times
Wait times do extend on long weekends and public holidays. Easter and the Christmas and New Year period are the busiest. Even then, the queue is usually measured in cars rather than in minutes; both ferries running side by side clear traffic quickly. The slowest periods are weekday mornings and late evenings. If you’re arriving for a Friday-night check-in after work and want to skip even the small possibility of a queue, leaving Adelaide before 3pm is the safe play.
The ferries occasionally close for scheduled maintenance, usually during weekday off-peak hours, with the second ferry covering crossings during the closure. In genuine flood years like 2022 and 2023, both ferries can be temporarily suspended, but those events are rare and well publicised in advance. For day-of-travel certainty, the SA Government’s River Murray ferries page lists current operational status for all eleven crossings.
What the crossing adds to the arrival
The simplest reading is that the ferry is an easy, free, seven-minute step in getting to your accommodation. That’s the practical truth, and it’s worth saying plainly: no one needs to plan around it, time it, or worry about it.
The longer reading is that the crossing changes something about the arrival that a bridge wouldn’t. You drive a familiar South Australian road, you cross a river on a cable ferry, you step out at a villa above the water. Three distinct phases, each with its own pace. Couples who’ve done the trip multiple times tend to mention the ferry, not as a matter of logistics, but as the moment the weekend genuinely begins.
FAQs
Is the Mannum ferry free?
Yes. Both Mannum ferries are run by the South Australian Government as part of the road network, so there is no fare, no ticket and no booking.
Do the Mannum ferries run at night?
Yes. At least one of the two ferries runs 24 hours a day, seven days a week, so a late arrival is never stranded on the Mannum side.
What if both ferries are on the far bank when I arrive?
One will be back within a few minutes. The crossing takes around seven minutes each way, so in normal conditions that is about the longest you will wait.
Is there a bridge at Mannum?
No. The nearest road bridges are downriver at Murray Bridge, so the ferry is the direct route from Adelaide to Cowirra and Hunter Road.
Is Hunter Road easy to drive after dark?
Yes. It is sealed all the way, but it is unlit country road, so take it steady and let Wink know your expected arrival time.
Your host, Michael Chorney
Michael is owner of Riverview Rise Retreats in Mannum South Australia and practicing artist at Chorney-Studios.com.au. Learn more about Michael here.